Levada do Pináculo e Folhadal (PR17): A Forest Hike Above Ribeira Brava

Levada do Pináculo e Folhadal PR17 is one of Madeira’s best long, quiet forest walks for experienced hikers who want Laurissilva scenery and mountain-scale views away from the busiest Rabaçal routes. It combines old levadas, stone-paved paths, damp tunnels, waterfalls and a high viewpoint over the Ribeira Brava valley. In this updated guide: learn the current route access situation, which direction makes most sense, how to organise transport, what to carry for the tunnels and why weather here can feel very different from Funchal.

What makes Levada do Pináculo e Folhadal PR17 special?

PR17, officially named Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal, crosses the high interior above Ribeira Brava, between the Encumeada area and the roads of Paul da Serra. It is not a gentle sightseeing levada: this is a demanding mountain day with long exposed-to-the-elements sections, uneven stonework and several changes between levada path and traditional paved trail.

The reward is variety. The route follows the Levada da Serra and Levada do Norte, passes through lush Laurissilva woodland and reaches the Pináculo area, where clear conditions can reveal a broad view over the Ribeira Brava valley towards Madeira’s central peaks. Later, the character changes again: tunnels, dripping rock faces and small waterfalls make the Folhadal section feel enclosed, green and distinctly wild.

It is a particularly good choice if you have already walked the headline routes around Rabaçal and want a less crowded alternative. Do not mistake “quieter” for “easier”, however. The official classification is difficult, and the terrain deserves a full-day mindset. For more context on the island’s protected forest, see our guide to Madeira’s biggest and oldest trees.

Current PR17 access and the best direction to walk

The full official PR17 is listed as 15 km from Lombo do Mouro to Encumeada. At the time of checking, the official trail status states that the passable section runs between Encumeada, Folhadal, Caramujo and Bica da Cana. This is important: do not arrive expecting every part of the historical 15 km route to be available or assume that a route description published years ago reflects the usable path today.

For most independent hikers, starting from the Encumeada side and walking towards Folhadal, Caramujo and Bica da Cana is the most logical current arrangement. It brings you first into the damp levada-and-tunnel landscape, then towards the higher, more open sections. It also means that, if cloud or rain worsens, you have made the cautious choice of assessing conditions before committing to the more remote part of the day.

This is not a circular route. You need a pre-arranged lift, two cars, a taxi plan or a guided transfer for the far end. If you cannot arrange a pick-up, turn around with plenty of time and energy in reserve rather than relying on an unplanned roadside solution. Mountain-road driving in this part of Madeira is slow and can be stressful in low cloud; read our practical guide to driving Madeira’s mountain roads before choosing to self-drive.

What to expect on the trail

PR17 is best understood as a mixed mountain walk rather than a continuously level levada stroll. There are long, narrow paths beside water channels, but also stone-paved sections, stairs, muddy ground and undulations that become tiring over a long day. In wet weather, moss, loose leaves and polished stone can be slippery.

The tunnels are a memorable part of the route, but they require proper preparation. Some are dark enough that a phone torch is not a sensible primary light source: take a reliable head torch, ideally with spare power. Keep your footing, avoid rushing and be prepared for water dripping from the ceiling or running across the path. A waterproof outer layer is useful even on a day that begins dry.

There are also occasional drops beside the levada. The path is not suitable for anyone uncomfortable with narrow mountain terrain, and it is not a good first Madeira hike. Walkers should stay on the signed route, never climb around barriers and turn back if a closure, landslip or unsafe conditions make progress doubtful.

Getting there and planning transport realistically

Encumeada is the easier end to reach from the south or north of the island, while Bica da Cana and Caramujo sit on the high roads towards Paul da Serra. Public transport may serve the wider Encumeada area, but it is not a dependable solution for completing this point-to-point hike: services are limited, timings do not necessarily match a six-hour mountain walk and the higher road access is particularly awkward without private arrangements.

A rental car is useful only if you have a second vehicle or are happy to use a pre-booked taxi at one end. Do not leave this arrangement until you finish walking, as mobile signal can be inconsistent in the forest and drivers may need advance notice for a remote collection point. Guided hikes are another practical option for solo visitors who would rather avoid shuttle logistics.

Before setting off, check the live PR17 entry on the IFCN official trail-status page, not merely a weather app or an old GPX track. Madeira’s classified trails can close or be restricted because of weather, maintenance or ground conditions.

Weather at altitude: why conditions can change quickly

PR17 runs high above the coast, with the official route reaching 1,490 metres. That altitude matters. A warm, sunny morning in Funchal or Ribeira Brava can coincide with fog, wind and persistent drizzle around Encumeada and Bica da Cana. Cloud can remove the valley views entirely, while damp conditions make the tunnels and shaded paths cooler than expected.

Choose a stable forecast, start early and carry layers rather than relying on a single heavy jacket. In winter, allow extra daylight margin; in summer, do not underestimate wind chill in cloud. If you are planning several high-altitude walks, our Pico do Areeiro weather and walking guide explains the same essential principle: Madeira’s mountain forecast is often more relevant than the coastal one.

Insider tips for PR17

• Pay and check status on the same day: Trail access arrangements and operational sections can change, so confirm PR17 directly with IFCN before leaving your accommodation.
• Take a proper head torch: A charged phone is useful as a backup, but it is not the best tool for several wet, dark tunnels.
• Arrange your exit before starting: This is a point-to-point route, not a walk where transport can be assumed at the finish.
• Wear grippy footwear: Waterproof hiking shoes or boots with good tread are much safer than trainers on wet stone, mud and moss.
• Carry enough food and water: Treat this as a remote mountain hike; do not expect cafés, shops or drinking-water points along the trail.
• Keep the viewpoint flexible: Pináculo can be spectacular in clear weather, but the forest, levadas and waterfalls remain the main experience when cloud settles in.

Perguntas frequentes

Is Levada do Pináculo e Folhadal PR17 open?
PR17 is currently listed by the official trail authority as open, with the passable section specified as Encumeada, Folhadal, Caramujo and Bica da Cana. Always check the official status again immediately before hiking, as Madeira trail conditions can change.

How difficult is PR17?
It is officially rated difficult. Although it includes levada paths, the route also has uneven stone sections, tunnels, damp surfaces, long duration and mountain exposure. It is most suitable for fit, confident hikers with previous experience on Madeira trails.

Do I need to pay for PR17?
Yes. In 2026, the individual fee for this classified trail is €4.50 for visitors aged over 12, while visitors aged 12 and under are exempt. Payment is made through the official SIMplifica system.

Can I do PR17 without a car?
It is possible with a guided hike or a pre-arranged taxi transfer, but it is not straightforward using public transport alone. Because the accessible route is point-to-point and runs through remote highland terrain, transport should be organised before you begin.

Facts and prices verified in October 2026. For more route ideas, explore our Madeira hiking and levadas guides, compare this forest walk with the quieter Lagoa do Vento hike, and see our overview of Madeira’s official PR hiking trails.