Levada do Cedros (PR14) Madeira: A Laurissilva Walk Near Fanal

The Levada do Cedros PR14 hike is a peaceful 7.2 km one-way walk through Madeira’s ancient Laurissilva forest, but it is better treated as a moderate outing than a completely easy stroll. Starting near Fanal on the ER209 road, it follows an old water channel downhill towards Curral Falso, combining mossy woodland, open hillside views and a quieter atmosphere than Madeira’s busiest levada routes. In this updated guide: the official route details, where to park, how to organise the one-way logistics, what weather to expect and whether PR14 works for families or first-time hikers.

What is Levada do Cedros PR14?

PR14, officially named Levada dos Cedros, is a classified walking route in the north-west of Madeira. It begins beside the ER209 in the Fanal area and follows the historic Levada dos Cedros to Curral Falso, above Ribeira da Janela. The official distance is 7.2 km, with an estimated walking time of around three hours; the route descends from 1,090 metres to 840 metres and is rated moderate.

This is not the dramatic cliff-edge hike many visitors imagine when they hear “Madeira trail”. Its appeal is quieter and more atmospheric: damp forest, broad-leaved native trees, ferny banks, the sound of running water and occasional views across the Ribeira da Janela valley. The levada itself is part of the experience, offering a largely gradual line through a landscape shaped by Madeira’s traditional irrigation systems.

The trail begins close to Fanal, one of the island’s most evocative highland landscapes. Much of the walk passes through Laurissilva, Madeira’s UNESCO World Heritage laurel forest, recognised as the largest surviving area of this forest type and an important refuge for endemic species.

Why walk PR14 near Fanal?

Choose the Levada do Cedros PR14 hike in Madeira if you want a proper forest walk without the crowds, long tunnel sections or major climbs associated with some of the island’s better-known routes. It is particularly rewarding for travellers who enjoy woodland detail rather than seeking a single headline viewpoint.

The first part near Fanal feels high, cool and often misty, with ancient-looking trees and pastureland nearby. Further along, the route settles into denser vegetation. There are stretches where the levada runs beside a sloping hillside, so this is not a route to rush, especially after rain.

PR14 also makes a good alternative when the central mountains are clouded in or when you want a less demanding day than a summit route. However, “less demanding” does not mean effortless: the trail is one-way, uneven in places and officially graded moderate. Walkers should be comfortable on narrow paths beside a levada and prepared for wet ground.

Route, parking and one-way transport logistics

Start at the signed PR14 access point on the ER209 near Fanal. There are roadside spaces and informal pull-offs around the Fanal area, but parking is limited and conditions can be muddy in wet weather. Arrive early, park considerately and never block forestry entrances, passing places or access gates.

The important practical point is that PR14 is not a return walk. It ends at Curral Falso, also on the ER209 but several kilometres away by road. The simplest option is to use two cars: leave one at the finish before driving to Fanal. If you have one vehicle, arrange a taxi collection in advance, ideally with a confirmed meeting point and mobile coverage checked before you set off.

There is no need to turn PR14 into an out-and-back route unless you specifically want a longer day. Walking back would make the outing roughly 14.4 km and returns uphill. For most visitors, the official one-way direction from Fanal to Curral Falso is the more enjoyable and straightforward choice.

Before leaving your accommodation, check the official route-status panel. Madeira trails can close temporarily because of heavy rain, wind, landslides, maintenance or wildfire precautions. Our guide to Madeira hiking trail closures and fees explains what to check before any PR walk.

The current 2026 access fee for PR14 is €4.50 for visitors aged over 12, while children aged 12 and under are exempt. Payment is made through the official SIMplifica system.

Trail conditions, weather and what to wear

Fanal sits on Madeira’s high western plateau, where weather changes quickly. Fog can arrive even when Funchal is sunny, and rain or low cloud can make the forest feel colder than expected. The mist is part of Fanal’s character, but it can reduce visibility and make roots, stone and exposed earth slippery.

Wear walking shoes or boots with reliable grip rather than smooth-soled trainers. A lightweight waterproof layer is essential in every season, and take water and a snack: there are no services along the PR14 route. Long trousers can be more comfortable on damp or overgrown sections, while a warm layer is useful when cloud settles over the plateau.

Do not rely on the weather in Funchal when deciding whether to hike. Check the forecast for the western highlands on the morning itself, then reassess at Fanal. If visibility is very poor, rainfall is persistent or winds are strengthening, choose another activity and return on a clearer day.

Can families and first-time hikers do PR14?

PR14 can suit active families and first-time levada walkers, provided everyone understands that it is a three-hour, one-way trail rather than a short loop around Fanal. Children who are used to walking and can stay close to an adult should enjoy the forest and water channel. The official exemption for visitors aged 12 and under applies to the trail fee, not to supervision requirements.

It is less suitable for pushchairs, very young children who need frequent carrying, or anyone uncomfortable with narrow paths and hillside exposure. There are no handrails along every section, and wet conditions make careful footing important. For a gentler family-friendly forest experience, spend time around Fanal itself, then choose a shorter marked walk on another day.

First-time hikers should allow extra time, avoid starting late and arrange their return transport before beginning. If you prefer a more direct waterfall-focused levada outing, consider the Levada do Alecrim in nearby Rabaçal instead.

Combining PR14 with other walks

PR14 links naturally with PR15, Vereda da Ribeira da Janela, at Curral Falso. PR15 then descends 2.7 km to Ribeira da Janela and takes an estimated 1 hour 30 minutes, creating a longer point-to-point day with a substantial downhill finish. It is a worthwhile combination for experienced walkers with transport waiting in the village, but it should not be added casually: PR15 is also officially rated moderate and requires its own access payment.

A more relaxed plan is to pair PR14 with time at Fanal before or after the hike. Visit the laurel woodland, enjoy the changing light across the plateau and leave enough daylight for your drive back. Madeira’s mountain roads demand attention in cloud, so do not plan a rushed late-afternoon return.

• Pay before you arrive: Complete the PR14 access payment through SIMplifica and keep the confirmation available on your phone.
• Organise the finish first: This is a linear route, so settle your second car or taxi collection before starting at Fanal.
• Start early in clear weather: Morning conditions often give you more time before mist thickens over the plateau.
• Take a waterproof even in summer: Fanal’s damp microclimate can feel markedly cooler than the coast.
• Stay on the signed trail: Do not use levada banks or informal shortcuts to bypass muddy sections.
• Give yourself a margin of daylight: The forest is beautiful in low cloud, but not the place to navigate after dark.

Perguntas frequentes

Is Levada do Cedros PR14 an easy hike?
Not officially. PR14 is rated moderate and takes around three hours for 7.2 km. The gradient is mostly downhill in the Fanal-to-Curral-Falso direction, but the narrow, damp and occasionally uneven levada path requires attention.

Do I need to pay to walk PR14?
Yes. In 2026, visitors aged over 12 pay €4.50 through the official SIMplifica portal. Children aged 12 and under are exempt. Always check the official system before travelling, as access arrangements can change.

Can I park at the start of Levada do Cedros?
There are limited roadside and informal parking spaces near Fanal on the ER209. Arrive early, park only where safe and legal, and remember that your car will remain at the start unless you arrange transport from Curral Falso.

Can I combine PR14 with PR15?
Yes. PR15 starts at Curral Falso and continues downhill to Ribeira da Janela. Together, the two routes make a longer day, so arrange a pick-up at the village and check that both trails are open before setting out.

Facts and prices verified in August 2026. For more practical walking advice, see our guide to Madeira hiking trail closures and fees, plan a contrasting west-to-east drive with this Madeira 7-day car itinerary, or explore another quieter forest route on the Levada do Castelejo hike.